... breaking through the crowded lanes of rusty taxis, past the city limits UN check points, into the lush tropical greens surrounding both sides of the Rover, rocking back and forth down a system of bumpy dirt roads that doesn't belong to any map except one you make your own napkin... you will find a series of little villages making up "Cheesemanburg". Recently destroyed by war, you will find a surprising enchanting landscape of beautifully new, smooth mud houses, intricately patterned palm weaves and sticks to make up the roofs & windows, children playing in the rain all the way home in their crisp school uniforms, and adults doing their various laborious tasks with a natural ease.
I came here today with my friend & old roommate Jen, who is in charge of Community Health education. Todays task is to aid her in doing a basic village health assessment of 2 of these villagettes, to see and ask what exactly their needs are before directing & empowering their elected village health leaders in the coming months. Before anything of that can start, we must fulfill tradition and gather on the porch of the village's chief to introduce ourselves and meet the elderly gang of the neighborhood ;) I try to get the giddy smile off my face that reflects my thoughts of "am i dreaming?" and correct my posture into its most culturally respective manner, NO crossing legs i keep telling myself! As I look around I'm surrounded by the highly respected of the community, their wrinkley faces full of mystery and just as many questions about us, as i have for them myself. They as usual, quickly show us the same respect and treat us graceously with their finest possessions. Once again, a simple, universal smile is enough to break the ice and began to get acquianted.
After introductions and small elementary chatter, we stand to our feet to walk around to see the make up of the village... they take us on a narrow path down to their source of drinking, bathing, laundry water... a leafy, bug, filled riverbed they say never goes dry here. They do not boil the water or even comprehend adding chlorine tablets before drinking it. It physically PAINS my stomach just standing their looking at it!
Up the path a little way is a middle aged woman up to her waist (inside a 4 x4ft mud hole) in red palm oil she is creating as she stomps with her barefeet on the wet palm nut fibers...a cooking staple in Liberia.
Up another path into the "town square" again I gaze in awe at their houses they have created with mud, sticks, & the lucky ones, tin... each have helped their neighbor (somehow related family) to make a home. I learn they are a self sustaining community..only having to buy fish & salt from the outside to survive. Almost every other tree we pass, they offer us fruit of some kind, most i have never tried before.. i was jealous of them a bit...living in something like a garden of Eden,
... but then i am reminded why there is another Mercy Ships vehicle off the road a bit in the distance, working on teaching their members how to dig their own wells and latrines..
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disease turning into death lingers among this lush garden and giggly children as well. After more tours of chickens in homes and old men with YOUNG wives cooking their lunches, babies taking naps right on their dirt floors... i get a chance to talk with some of the village members one on one! With the help of our health village trainees, we work through a list of 20 basic health questions... " What do you do with your garbage..burn it or throw it in the bush?" , Do you wash your hands before you eat or after poo poo?, Where do you go to the bathroom?, What do you think is your families biggest health concern?, How many of your family member have had diarrhea or malaria in the past month?" They answer and i try to keep a neutral face, wondering if they even know the answer i am looking, hoping for? At the end I thank them, ask a few of my own backpile of curious questions, turn down marriage proposals, and quickly move on!
Next week I've been invited back to help teach about Malaria..Africa's biggest killer (greater than AIDS) I am excited to have a shot at developing these teaching skills for the first time :)
I had a blast. I really think if i had to live in Africa, Cheesmanburg is where i'd set my rocking chair... Once again, beautiful people, who may not be intelligent in some things like their water system...but know the inspiring simplicity you can't find in a textbook. There is much to learn from one another.
(3 elected village health trainees working with M.S.)
